holley sniper efi iac problems

Ive also used another snap on light to confirm. Sometimes it sounds like it wants to crank at the start but runs out of gas. ?I never had my Carb Cold start RPM any higher then 1600 RPM.THANK YOU. Holley Sniper IAC Problem 04-26-2018, 11:30 AM Hello. Then follow all of the instructions above, including confirming the idle speed curve setting at -40 degress as well as following my 10-step process for setting the idle. I can have it working fine (5% to 10% at target idle at operating temp.) It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. I'll give the ". hard start about 1/2 throttle from stop it bogs down after 3 or 4 seconds.What I Thank you for any advice. I have adjusted many settings and eventually mess it up and go back to the original map. I managed to get the IAC down to around 0% - 8%is this good? I did read some comments on regulator issues is there a way to check it for an issue ? Not that I noticed. And if you're going to go this route I'd recommend that you switch from "Simple" (3 A/F targets, one each for Idle, Cruise, and WOT) and go to the 2-D Table You can disable the idle spark control at the locations below. Is this an issue to worry about? That is likely just confusing the issue.Instead, choose whichever setup most resembles your camshaft and stick with that. In the warm state IAC adjusted to a position of 2 to 10%. After the start process, If the idle speed is higher than the target idle then the IAC should begin closing as long as the TPS is below 2%. The motor has 376hp at flywheel and the car is a stick shift. There's nothing wrong with manual tuning, but at this point that is just compensating for an inadequate fuel map. I would start by datalogging the situation and seeing exactly what your learn table looks like in the area immediately around the tip-in. I will turn it up some more.Is this something that the ECU will learn? In the context of the Sniper the AFR that is being displayed is the AFR of ethanol-free gasoline based on the lambda that is being read by the AFR. Throttle Tip-In puts you in a part of the fuel map where you stay for only milliseconds at a time. I got it home, checked it all over, everything is hooked up correctly. If I go any more it will ping. Eventually the IAC will drop back to zero, I'll readjust it to 850 RPM & 2-9%, and then watch it steadily climb again. I think you'll be all set! I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. Well, it turns out that with the current firmware this throws the IAC control into a bit of confusion. Now that you've installed at least four Snipers it is going to be imperative that you learn to create and read datalogs. port that goes right on the inlet of your Sniper and makes installation a breeze.If your fuel pressure is solid at about 60 PSI then you should start looking at If you go too low then it may stumble or even stall when coming off of throttle. In addition to avoiding this particular problem, the total solution is much better. Also if I give it a Changing the rpm curve and target rpm has no effect. IAC percentage is 5 to 10% when idling with fans on, What you're experiencing is the delay time between the ECU sensing the additional load and the IAC actually increasing the RPM. :-)Yes, learn impacts idle too, and remember the even when the basic learning is done there will continue to be some learning for changes in weather, altitude, etc.Go ahead and try a few idle settings and see how they impact the idle-speed searching. That is the default "Clear Flood" TPS setting and turns all fuel off until the engine cranks. If I put the vehicle in gear the idle gets higher with temp. I don't want to go on too long here but once you know if you're trying to add or remove fuel, there are a couple of ways to go. View Holley Sniper EFI Self-Tuning Kit - Shiny Finish. It only lowers to 2-6% when I take my foot off the gas. 400 engine, C6 3 speed automatic, with standard canister coil for ignition, and It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. installing and cruising down the highway 70 mph I just wonder if all I have to do You could go either way.. As I would slow down for a stop sign or stop light, the car would run really rough and the idle did not want to come down. Note: The IAC breather hole is the roughly 1/4-inch triangular hole that sits above and between the secondaries. My Sniper started having a ticking noise-- I have 90 miles on my Sniper, but this started the last 10 miles or so: it still drives fine, but it worries me so i've stopped driving it for now. Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. Though it started and ran good, it was dumping fuel and would not lean out to AFR set points. Yes its at 95lbs, needless to say he promised a new regulator would be in the Nice to meet you. The engine might run hot but if the timing is right it should keep that heat in the engine--which is where the damage turns up. Then it changes and will not idle down, the handheld will display 0% IAC but you can see and feel that the IAC valve is more like 100%. An undersized or partially plugged fuel filter is a classic EFI installation mistake. IAC is good 0-5% most of the time. Laptop Access To do this, open up the Initial Startup gauge screen that was used in section 17.0. Idles ok, runs great cruising, but from a stand still or downshifting and making a turn, when I get back into it, it wants to fall on its face. Take a drive and stop somewhere for 30 minutes, CTS is 170 when engine was shutoff. Two months fighting, cursing, not getting any help from Holley OR the forum, and a stupid little tin plate. Once it decides to come back down, it does so with no issue. Im thinking a faulty TPS. Between the kick down and the return springs on the throttle body the pedal is so hard to push it's pretty much a jack rabbit start every time from stop, it's almost undrivable, any suggestions on what I could do?thanks for help, I've tried both Holley's tech lines for close to 2 hours with no answer! If you remove the air cleaner entirely and the whistle continues then you can rule that out. After much diagnosis, I ended up replacing the intake manifold gaskets. That is the only way to fly. Bolt on 4150 Flange Carburetor Replacement. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. Thanks for any info./insight you can provide, Mark. I'm new to EFI and have no idea what to try next. Chris, At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. Please give this a try and let us know how it works! Featured Products EFI - Fuel Injection $2.59 - $6,499.95 2179 Products View Parts Sensors With everything else being right and since you can make it start by adding fuel it seems like you must have some sort of fuel pressure issue. My sniper is doing two thingsFirst issue, the idle is set at 800 and will idle fine, then There is a glitch in the system. By going into the IAC settings and turning off the Idle Spark control and setting Target Idle to 750 RPM my idle issues are gone, and it now returns to desired idle after cruise. I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. As I said I didn't buy from you so you don't owe me anything. We offer some tips to help with that. 1. As I said above, you could have a bad IAC, but then again, the IAC might be fine and there's a deeper problem such as RFI noise causing the issue or a vacuum leak that is confusing things. Strangely, what I've seen is that it idles too lean as the injectors are effectively shut off.Thanks again for the follow-up and glad to hear that everything is working well now. I can tell you that when things aren't working the way you wanted them to work that nothing beats knowing for-sure that you don't have a fuel supply problem. What I can't explain is why your TPS is acting so randomly. Your comment doesn't imply any sort of problem that would make me give up on idle timing control. Is there away to lean the idle out? Incorrect connections will result in excessive resistance. Hello. The 10 step set up on your page set my idle perfect and iac perfect a very consitant 700. It turns out that some of the Snipers are shipping with the minus 40-degree setting drastically lower, as shown in the following image. When I cover it with my hands, it gets quieter. have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the I recently install a sniper efi. The last 2 times have been shorter and one time the high idle was around 1400, this time around 1100. If you haven't confirmed that they it is worth checking. Have you confirmed your fuel pressure at idle is 60 PSI? I am new to the EFI scene but want to learn. This is normally used as an A/C idle-up circuit. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. To keep it running in gear, I have to bump the neutral idle up just over 1000 RPM. But I wanted to go ahead and answer this so that it would make sense to someone who might not go that route.I think the first thing I'd do is try another pressure gauge. Hello Chris. The throttle plates are misaligned. This can cause the engine to run rough and may even lead to engine damage. I hope everyone enjoys this v. started up the engine. Adding a wrap to the return spring on the shaft is one alternative to solving this. If you have any questions about the car/setup let me know. Some have suggested the gasket might cause it but I've never heard of anyone fixing the whistle by adjusting the gasket (and many have tried. check, I guess after reading everyone saying how great the system is after Next, clean the IAC and all related parts with brake cleaner. If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. It will learn the fueling eventually either way, it's just that one might get you there a little faster.If the idle is fine at start-up but then increases after you depress the throttle then you might need to lower your IAC Hold Position a bit. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. The latest was changing the power brake booster.Today I drove it to work and no issues at all. If your fuel pressure is at or about 60 PSI then visually inspect the barrels of the throttle body while having someone key on the Sniper. Your closed loop compensation is adding a full 50% fuel. Super helpful and knowledgeable. Well you were right air was entering from another source. Seems like its too slow to grab idle when ac kicks on. Seems to behave more better now. Every time though I can turn the car off and restart and it settles at 850 with IAC 2-4.The thing that has me puzzled is how the with the only difference in condition of the car being the restart, the idle is "fixed"Any clues on where to look next please let me know. First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. The Sniper EFI replacement throttle body for Autolite 1100 carburetors will be right at home on most early in-line 6 cylinder powered grocery getters or weekend cruisers. This increased idle speed is triggered by grounding the orange wire in the 10-pin I/O harness. Has a good size camshaft cant find any vacuum leaks. Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded. The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. I put it in neutral and the idle RPM had increased to 2100-2200. Watch videos on installation hints and if you haven't yet, download & read every Sniper installation guide you can find online. Your issues are likely related to one of these two things. It meets the target idle perfectly in either but if I lightly stab the throttle it tries to stall after slightly revving. Ok, we have enough Sniper systems out there that I thought it would be a good idea to create a posting on challenges that might arise during installation. First--besides the fact that it's not represented on the display, it is not even a parameter that you can datalog. The last pic is with the car in Drive. If the minus 40 degree setting is lower than the setting to the right, simply move it up so that it looks something like this: The folks who have tried this have found that their idle speed control behaves much more as they expect. The IAC is hanging open and not really at 0. $107.95. You might even want to add our 4-foot extension harness that will allow you to connect/disconnect the display or CAN-to-USB adapter from inside the car (rather than trying to do that leaning over the engine and under the breather. Since a key cycle resets it to 0 and out to 30 or wherever I think that your timing is too retarded. Hang in there--you can do it. That, I am afraid, is going to involve a little bit of luck if you don't want to create a 250 MB data log. When I shut it off then start it It's going to be really difficult to nail down the problem with the several simultaneous changes that you've made. Second, Holley just released over the weekend a video on how to implement a flex fuel sensor on their HP and Dominator ECU's. Don't try to correct for the fuel. And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" Jump on board now! It could be that the air flow across the secondaries as they are opening is creating that whistle but that isn't commonly the case.Did you check for leaks around the gasket of the air cleaner? I know this is old, but I bought and installed a Sniper kit in 9/18. Its on a big block Mopar with stock electronic ignition . It started right up and we did your idle control fix and all is good at idle. I think that a great number of the challenges that Sniper EFI System Owners face are brought on themselves by getting into the control settings before the system has really had a chance to learn. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. If the connection is loose it will cause the system to shut fuel off because the signal telling the EFI the motor is turning stops (to prevent excess fuel from being dumped in the motor). On EFI systems such as Holley's Sniper, all of the EFI sensors (except for the O2 and coolant temperature sender) are mounted snuggly in the throttle body. The 5-6 times it has happened now have been after the car has been running for at least 20 minutes. I did check for the lightning under the hood but all was well. It then idles up from 750 to 1100. He has walked me through every question Iv. Intermittent stalling usually points to radio frequency or electro-magnetic intereference (RFI/EMI). I've abbreviated it just a little bit but am appreciative of the added insight your comments provided.Off-idle performance can really be a challenge to self-learn but be assured that it can almost always be done. Thanks for all your help Chris! I've increased the IAC rampdown time to 8 seconds to try to combat this, but wondering if it will correct itself over time or if I need to possibly replace this TP sensor. The very first thing I would do is get ground truth on your timing. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. It is a common one. knowledge with the sniper efi setup. This is more of a bit of a reality check. I have a set of 8.8 Accel Rfi suppression wires on it. AGAIN This is Intermittent meaning on a recent trip I stopped 3 times and issued occurred once. They tell you to ask call Holley. Lubricate the linkage so there isn't as much native resistance. Note too that the larger the throttle stab, the more brief the time in that cell and the more gradual the change.Here's what I recommend: Get somewhere where you can repeatedly stop and go. Pricing was reasonable, shipping was prompt and Chris helped me with a wiring question during my install. That If the ECU has not spent some significant time learning yet, I'd recommend going back through the setup wizard and getting everything back to default. It starts cold fine, its just when its hot. When I see that your TPS is 1%, that tells me that you may have an RFI problem. I had a customer who struggled to understand that. I installed the Holley Sniper in my Chevelle this winter with a brand new BluePrint 496. And so glad you guys are enjoying the Sniper EFI system. The Sniper EFI Manal says not to but many EFI installers have informed me that the transmission only reads the 5V TPS signal from the Sniper EFI & does not draw any power so will not affect the Sniper EFI TPS output. At some point you come upon problems that evade the easy answers and this is a good example. I would disregard any correlation between idle control between the Stock and Street/Strip setups. The warmer the motor, the higher the idle will be at this point. My IAC was constantly at 100% at idle. If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. mean that the IAC is causing it. The first thing I'd do is check your fuel pressure with a gauge like this. What might cause the TPS to go to 2%? And thanks again for taking your time to answer these questions. Running a bbc with coil - my timing is perfect. Its rare that you find someone that genuinely wants to help and see something work good, the information I have received from this page and Chris himself is top notch.1969 Dart GT 340 with a Holley Sniper, I purchased the Holley sniper from jegs wish I knew you sold them put on my truck got the IAC set haven't checked the -40 idle setting yet my problem is my headers are glowing red called Holley I think I got the worst person seemed to care less Afr is set at 12.8 for idle only thing I have changed I don't smell any fumes at idle someone said I could change the coolant temp enrichment but I don't know if it is rich or lean I figured since no smell it is lean any ideas would be appreciated thanks i have a fuel psi gauge reads 60 psi don't wanna melt my motor did not glow with a carburetor. But when you have it then you can look for exactly what the IAC is doing at that point, and if there is anything that might lead to this happening. Turning off and then on again, the engine returns to normal. technical rep said "You ahve high fuel pressure". Only show this user . Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. applies here because it is so important to realize that just because the IAC This is extremely unreliable afrer warm. Cycle the ignition as instructed by the handheld and then navigate to the distributor setup screen. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issues. I will confirm TDC with balancer but I have had balancer off and timed it before and after with same results. I have seen a couple of videos on you tube of the same issue but they don't seem to have found the cure.I hope it is not a computer problem as I have already replaced the entire system because of another problem. So I have been doing the slow take offs and thinking that it would learn its way out. When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. Thanks for your very detailed question! that my Air/Fuel ration was 15:1 and I believe the target is 13.5:1. When running it will only stay in closed loop and learn at idle. Bryan McTaggart 02/28/2023 news I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. Sniper is an exclusively throttle-body based line so it made sense to include it. Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. This will tell us if the ECU thinks that it is in control of setting the idle or if it thinks that you are driving the engine speed with the pedal. My car will not idle right until it gets to around 130 -140 degrees. Remember that as an EFI System Pro customer you have access to me at any time via my cell phone. Anyway I have a 327 sbc in a 1987 Monte SS with a T5 5 speed and 3:73 posi rear. :-). I would start by removing the progressive linkage. We are using Target AFR of 9.0: 1, Fuel Base approximately 40% higher. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. However, I can't think of a single one that was because of low vacuum. But if the idle is a little bit higher then it doesn't have to jump quite as much in response to the load, and tends to react a little bit more smoothly. I'd suggest that you assume everything the previous owner did was wrong until you can prove that it was done correctly. There are six different acceleration enrichment tables that you can tweak and that may be the way to go. Genuine Walbro fuel pumps are virtually bullet-proof. Thank you for your input. I ask because I'm using a PCV valve with my Sniper and have random idle issues as well. Is that normal? I'm so glad you found this helpful--that makes my day!Don't get too concerned about the specific learn percentage. Car was running great initially. I looking for your expert opinion. Do you have a PCV on the engine? The throttle blade adjustment is at 2-6% at hot idle, and with warm engine 185F. If the engine will after the 4 seconds that the IAC kick drops off then it's not really going to help.At any rate, it costs you nothing to advance the ignition and see if that doesn't improve the idle, right? I have been reading these posts and have learned a lot. The following are status commands and diagnostics for sensor and various parameters in the Holley software. All times are GMT-6. Does that make sense to you? Hello Chris. We have shipped quite a few of these to customers in Australia and New Zealand so I know that there is becoming a good following there!We recommend this Inline 10-micron fuel filter to prevent problems like that. One thing you need to sync the timing and set the inductive delay. I think you will find that it will learn its way through this. Which means you either need to increase that number or increase the ramp decay time. It does this with the engine off. Even 50 RPM can make a difference in how much impact the transition to Drive has on the idling engine's ability to stay at a fixed RPM.I would not recommend it in this situation but anytime a "kick" in idle speed is desired that is easily done by setting the kick value in Tuning > Advanced > Adv. Since your target is probably more like 700, and since 2400 is way over 1700 RPM, it's going to leave the IAC in the park position.Buckle down and find how air is getting into your engine. You can manually set it 57 after you run the Wizard if required. I will let you know what the results are. That's a nice change of pace--a low idle issue! The idle will not return to the set value.The second issue is the same as the first but the motor will stall out. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the IAC. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. Honestly, I've never seen this happen but if the butterflies were misaligned on the shafts it could allow too much air to enter. Unfortunately I did not buy my sniper efi from you. Hello The "PC Text" indicates what will be shown on the PC/Laptop data monitor or data logger. I have a feeling it's something simple but I thought I'd ask you first before I inadvertently change something that affects other areas. If you haven't installed a I was looking at a data log from my truck earlier this week and noted that at idle my IAC was zero. Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. Did your process to adjust idle to 860. I also noted that after some time, I could change those values as I saw fit. Always had to set idle above 950. Um, no. Capability Range: Advanced Any idea's? i'm having is I can't seem to get the truck to run faster than 45 mph at speeds So something is triggering the ECU to be in Open Loop. Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? I have a bone stock 350 that I installed a Sniper on and had the same whistle noise, presumably from air going past the butterflies. All of the wiring exits below the rear fuel injector cover, for a completely stealth installation. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. While confirming, in the handheld ensure that the Reference Angle is set to 57.5 and that the Inductive Delay is set to 100. Contact whomever sold you your system or Holley directly. But nothing beats a good solid gut-check Observing the temperature on the 3.5-inch handheld (only), wait for the temperature to achieve 160 degrees F. Once above 160 degrees, turn the idle speed screw so that the idle is about 50 RPM below your target idle speed set in step 1, above. When you have the issue you should disconnect all hoses and plug the ports on the Sniper. Also, I was seriously rich at idleso rich it hurt your eyes. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. Then, when you experience the high idle, note if the IAC number has increased. Use the idle speed screw to set the idle at a comfortable warm-up speed. back to trying to zero down an idle. I have verified that there are no vacuum leaks, not to mention the car runs to good to have a vacuum leak bad enough to make this noise. You just need to go back through the IAC adjustment procedure now that idle timing control is enabled. If you go too high then the motor will not return to your target idle when you come off the throttle. If you have a bellcrank in your throttle linkage, ensure that the linkage is not engaging the bellcrank at an angle greater than 45 degrees at either end of the throw. Capability Range: Professional To finish, I rather tightly twisted the TPS signal and ground wires all the way from the controller to the Sniper TPS and very carefully routed them away from sources of RFI. Try it! The problem I'm having is I cant get the IAC to drop down off 100%. Get a solid feeling for where it is when the engine is warm and the idle speed is correct. These will fix the noise but if the performance is suffering then likely you won't see any difference since it is not likely to be related to this sound. The noise changes sound with the throttle position. Chris, I recently installed my Sniper and have an intermittent idle problem. Or alternator? Im in Australia, so stuck the sniper on a 355 Holden engine with CD box. Could be a bad IAC motor, replace it and see if that solves the problem. I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! Fuel Prime Multiplier is primarily a benefit to throttle-body based EFI systems. Can the return line be an issue?So far this sounds like an ideal setup.>I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! I did buy the Sniper from you guys and the service was fantastic. And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. Since the load is more of a wave that increases the most initially and then decreases again, the ECU is doing really well to get the idle under control in only two or three over/under shots as you describe.You don't mention if you have your Sniper ECU controlling timing.

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